Careful What You Ask For
With wanderlust still tugging at my heart- I’d been in Fiji for just over a year…I was given the task of traveling into the interior of the main island of Fiji to find the remote villages that received the ‘two sewing machines-per village’ -that the Fijian Ministery of Woman delivered last year. Five short months earlier I was sitting in her office when she pointed to a large map of Fiji on her wall. There were hundreds of (more than 800 as it turns out) tiny colorful pins on all of the islands.“These are the villages that we have given sewing machines to. I want you to go out and teach them how to maintain and use those machines and teach them sewing.”
My first big adventure, after teaching more than twenty-relatively local workshops, was a poorly organized trip to Namosi. I should have gotten a clue from the name (it means ‘the pain’) but I faithfully went where I was sent. The first work plan had me riding on horseback from village to village. The twenty year old in me said YES…but this sixty year old body spoke louder and asked the ministry to find me alternative transportation. I hadn’t been on horse back for about twenty years. In true Fijian style they said "Sega na Leqa” (no worries) and planned the trip the way they wanted. And so with a ‘new plan’ that included only boat trips, I was heading up the river for two weeks-to the interior of Viti Levu. The beauty of this area rivaled that of the American national parks and the Norwegian Fjords! God was loud and clear in this area -where for two hours we did not see a soul…person or beast. Our small wooden boat forged Up river rapids. We lost our propeller forging up one set of rapids…but sega na leqa…the very capable captain wadded in, found it, banged out a repair on a rock and we were on our way. Around each bend and past glorious waterfalls, I expected to see bear fishing or dear …or an alligator. A Fijian friend told me that these islands are so well protected by reefs, that ships did not land here and bring any of these critters in! This jungle was actually ‘user friendly’ as I was soon to find out. Our first stop in the early evening, was at a sweet village –Namuamua. They apparently were not expecting us, because no food was prepared or offered. I was told, before I left, that the villagers would feed us very well (my experience thus far) so I brought only dried peas for snacks. At 8pm the officer I was traveling with- announced that we would, at this time, teach our first class on fixing sewing machines. We hadn’t eaten all day. Arriving at the hall...we found that a generator gave us little light to see. Around 10pm, I finally asked about food (this is rude behavior in Fiji) and a small meal was prepared for me while my coworker kept on fixing machines. Lice (pronounced Lethey) was new in the Ministry and this was her first trip to Namosi also. She is one of only a few dedicated workers in the Ministry. She had given birth eleven months prior. She never complained and did her best to plan this trip as we went. We taught for two more days, in that village and another village down river. On the third night, she told me that- in the morning, she would walk to a village- up the mountain and I could rest and meet her in the next village. She casually told me that I would go on horseback. (the only way to travel there). Peace Corps requires that we wear a helmet while on horseback…of course I didn’t have one…nor did the horse have a saddle…and my ‘guide’- a young boy, spoke no language I knew. It was 5:30pm when he arrived. I had no idea where we were going or how long it would take…and the sun was setting. Call it faith, fate or crazy…I got on that horse with all of our gear and headed out. I remember looking back at the concerned faces of my send off party!
The Peace Corps phrase- “Life is calling…how far will you go?”…was playing in my head as we crossed a river tini ka ono (sixteen) times- in water so deep that my feet were in the water. My guide walked behind the horse and I soon realized that this horse could have brought me to the village without him! As it got darker and darker and waterfalls were only something I could hear…the horse followed an invisible path through water, around rocks and into the jungle. I saw that this was a good time to look for the 'silver lining' in this situation…so I was appreciating that I was riding...and not walking and that there were no predators (animals, insects or people) for my one and a half hour ride. We climbed a steep mountain for the last half hour..and this horse became my new best friend! When we arrived in Vunidavo …they too were surprised to see me! They showed me to a one room hut, put me and all our gear on the side and just sat there staring at me. Similar to giving birth…I was amazed that I was still alive ….so, I just sat looking at them! I finally asked for the vale lailai (toilet) and a bathroom to bath in. The shower was open-air with no walls and the toilet only a little better. For three days I had eyes on me 24/7- I actually got used to it. Some of the kids never got over their fear of me. Elders explained that their village was so far removed from everything …and this white ‘ghost’ arrived alone on horse back…in the dark! Lice came and went- trekking to other villages- often in thigh deep mud-between huge rocks-up mountains! Food remained sparse and sleep more difficult each night…and I was becoming quite ill. At this point, I was in a fog, but I remember that we were eventually on a carrier (back of a truck) at 4am with root crops and Fijians going to the market place in Suva. Thirteen hours later I arrived home… so very grateful-prayers answered!! I was sick with an upper respiratory infection for a month…and no, I wouldn’t be returning to Namosi. Several Fijians told me later, that I was in areas that most Fijians have never been to...nor do they want to go!
The Peace Corps phrase- “Life is calling…how far will you go?”…was playing in my head as we crossed a river tini ka ono (sixteen) times- in water so deep that my feet were in the water. My guide walked behind the horse and I soon realized that this horse could have brought me to the village without him! As it got darker and darker and waterfalls were only something I could hear…the horse followed an invisible path through water, around rocks and into the jungle. I saw that this was a good time to look for the 'silver lining' in this situation…so I was appreciating that I was riding...and not walking and that there were no predators (animals, insects or people) for my one and a half hour ride. We climbed a steep mountain for the last half hour..and this horse became my new best friend! When we arrived in Vunidavo …they too were surprised to see me! They showed me to a one room hut, put me and all our gear on the side and just sat there staring at me. Similar to giving birth…I was amazed that I was still alive ….so, I just sat looking at them! I finally asked for the vale lailai (toilet) and a bathroom to bath in. The shower was open-air with no walls and the toilet only a little better. For three days I had eyes on me 24/7- I actually got used to it. Some of the kids never got over their fear of me. Elders explained that their village was so far removed from everything …and this white ‘ghost’ arrived alone on horse back…in the dark! Lice came and went- trekking to other villages- often in thigh deep mud-between huge rocks-up mountains! Food remained sparse and sleep more difficult each night…and I was becoming quite ill. At this point, I was in a fog, but I remember that we were eventually on a carrier (back of a truck) at 4am with root crops and Fijians going to the market place in Suva. Thirteen hours later I arrived home… so very grateful-prayers answered!! I was sick with an upper respiratory infection for a month…and no, I wouldn’t be returning to Namosi. Several Fijians told me later, that I was in areas that most Fijians have never been to...nor do they want to go!
Peace Corps…”Life is calling… how far will you go?”
